Cruising on the Sea Princess Sydney to Southampton via the Suez Canal on the first half of the World Cruise, then 12 days on the Royal Princess around Great Britain. A few days in Broadbeach just to keep the blog going...
Friday, 31 July 2015
Day 72 - Last sea day this year! July 30th
Thursday, 30 July 2015
Day 71 - Fifth Firth of Forth For Free - Farewell
Our last official Princess tour day and the last of our three days in Scotland. After two tours well away from major cities, today was a return to city life and it started with a free boat ride to shore at South Queensferry, where the iconic Forth Bridge is situated. This amazing all metal structure has just been granted World Heritage status. When it was first constructed, it was the largest steel structure in the world - and it only carries rail traffic, so naturally enough, over time, they had to build road bridges and as always, capacity was soon insufficient. Although it may not be too clear from any pics, they are currently constructing a fifth bridge and there was a public competition to name it. Our guide for the day, John Duncan's suggestion was the 'Fifth Firth of Forth For Free', as that is exactly what it will be. Sadly, his suggestion wasn't taken up.
We had opted for the City Tour and Edinburgh Castle trip and the first surprise was that the chap wearing the kilt was not in fact the guide, it was Daniel, our coach driver!
Our guide John could have done a very passable impression of Ronnie Corbett with a pillow up his shirt. His voice and delivery was just about identical - and he wasn't very tall. With flat cap and moustache, it just completed the look.
Once again, a very good guide who was pleasant to listen to and it was only after a very slow drive around the city, once again clogged by very heavy traffic, and our arrival at Edinburgh Castle, that he lapsed into the heavy history lesson. My earpiece/radio wasn't working very well and just 2 or 3 minutes inside the portcullis, Paula and I opted to do our own thing, as this then gave us time to exit the castle and spend just a few minutes at the top of the Royal Mile.
However, the castle is well worth a visit as there is much to see, other than just the spectacular view. In the distance, we could just make out the top of the Forth Bridge.
The castle doesn't have a specific build date as it was progressively enhanced over several hundred years. It incorporates one or two museums, including a prisoner museum and the castle is still today, actively used as an army base.
Well known to most people is the Edinburgh Tattoo and this magnificent show takes months to assemble, with temporary stands, sound and lighting systems and a massive control box. It also takes a couple of months to disassemble, so six months of the year, there is work going on in front of the castle.
The number of visitors was unbelievable and the queue for tickets must have been well over 200 yards/metres. Bunches of narrated tours were everywhere but on the way out, the multi storey gift shop and café is worth a visit, as in the basement, they still have an active weaving shop. The view wasn't that good as it was from windows in the shop, but it made a change.
Outside the castle, it was just as chaotic, with people entering and leaving plus all those just walking the Royal Mile.
Several HoHo buses around, including what was billed as a 'Vintage' bus, tour. It looked like a London Routemaster with the roof removed. Not exactly vintage, but you wouldn't be getting air-conditioning.
We did a little shopping and I managed to buy our regular Australian cruisers' uniform tartan hat – with attachment.
Our time back at the bus was 12:15, with a departure time of 12:20. Just one senior American couple hadn't arrived at 12:15 and the guide made the correct call to leave. He had no choice, as once back at base, they had the afternoon tour to consider.
At 12:30, we set off and straightaway, at the castle gates, we hit the traffic jam, stuck behind other tour buses and HoHo buses. The errant couple were spotted by a friend on the coach, so the driver opened the doors and they hopped on. No apology for their lateness either. I am sure that some people have no concept as to how their own tardiness has a knock on effect.
Back to South Queensferry much easier than the journey out, as it was no longer rush hour. We could have eaten locally, but opted to return to the ship, as the warm sunshine looked to be fading as the heavy clouds rolled in.
We rode up top on the tender and timed it just right. The clouds did pass over later and the late afternoon and evening were very pleasant indeed. The first time Paula has been warm for a few days!
Deck 5 and yet another tasty (mushroom) quiche plus prawn, shaved fennel and radish salad and the chicken and pineapple again and a vanilla coffee.
Although I'll explain some of the Royal specifics later, they do have a gelato bar downstairs. Three scoops for $3.60 – or one clip off your coffee card. Paula wanted the lemon yogurt she's seen previously, but they only had strawberry yoghurt. She managed to sweet talk the server to let her have just one scoop for free, claiming that was fair enough, as her coffee was only half strength and that was a full clip! It was delicious…
Then the dreaded announcement from the Captain. "Due to an increased number of gastroenteritis cases notified to the medical centre…" I'm sure regular cruisers will be able to add what followed.
Not as severe as what we had previously as only some services were affected, namely they now issued cutlery instead of leaving it on the tables and the salt and pepper pots had vanished. Personally, I think that issuing napkins and cutlery and removing glasses and mugs from the tables makes more sense anyway. On the Royal, in addition to the usual hand sanitizers on entry, they also have a small alcove containing running water and soap so they insisted we wash our hands before entering the buffet. No big deal.
The food was still self-service other than the speciality area had noodle soup, which was ordered at the counter, then delivered to the table. We chatted to a waiter we'd talked to when we dined with Chris Watkins and Paula asked why there was never a crème brulee in the Horizon Court (there was the first day), only on the dining room menu, as a staple. To cut a short story shorter, this delightful waiter fetched her one. A Blue card moment.
Just before 9:15 we headed back to the Vista for another David Knight hypnotism show. As David explained, there are several levels and some go deeper than others. One woman said she was aware of what she was doing but just couldn't help it. She was on a different level from the others and David asked her if she was a hypnotist. She said no. So David asked HER to count to 3, then click her fingers. She did - and promptly fell asleep again!
As always, the end was pretty funny.
Clocks forward again 1 hour tonight, temporarily, and a relaxing sea day to look forward to before we return to Le Havre. Weather forecast is a high of – 16 degrees. Although it won't take us too long, no doubt we'll be packing.
We received a Le Havre shuttle leaflet, stating that the ship shuttle to town, 3kms away, would be the usual $8 per person each way – and taxis were available at the wharf for approx €10. Do the math.
Wednesday, 29 July 2015
Day 70 - Invergordon - the Scottish highlands and lowlands - and some low people.
Tuesday, 28 July 2015
Day 69 - Special Sea Day
No rush to get up, but it is light at 5am! We rolled out at a more respectable time, but had to be aware of the time as we had something special on at 12 noon. But first things first. Back to a light cooked breakfast, then to the Live Studio on deck 7 for the 10am recording of tomorrow’s Wake Show. We arrived just after recording had started, with two little Welsh girls as guests. Maybe they should have renamed it the Welsh Show, as Cruise Director Sam is Welsh and the other featured guest was Welsh violinist, Chris Watkins. Once the Welsh kids and parents had left, there was space for us. To be truthful, there was only one other passenger in the audience!
If nothing else, our applause was audible, when it wasn’t supplemented by an applause track…
We then had to change into ‘casual but elegant’ attire, as we had the lunch for the most travelled passengers, hosted by Captain Bob Oliver. Earlier, we’d ascertained from Vivian from Brazil (Circle Host) that there were just 239 Elite passengers on board.
We had no idea what to expect, but we really did expect anything up to 200 passengers based on those figures. We arrived on time to find a fairly short queue to get in, but our names were ticked off on entry (it was an RSVP do) and we were presented to the Captain, for a photograph, then shown not just to our table, but to our places at the table, where there was a name card, and a personalised menu. Each table had 6 passengers plus a senior crew member. This was not at all what we expected as we found out that it was only the 40 most travelled passengers!
Our senior crew member was the very pleasant Dr Ismail Ryvat from South Africa and the other 4 guests were British passport holders, though one couple resided in Malta. I have never sat next to a bloke wearing sandals, a ponytail, a scarf and makeup before… He turned out to be OK to talk to, it was just the initial look that threw me.
Wine (complementary) was served and our first course (see pics) consisted of a seafood trio. Eat your hearts out Kiwi seafood lovers… “King Crab Tian, Marinated Shrimp, Lobster Tempura.”
There were two mains on offer, grilled sea bass filet, or our choice, slow roasted rack of veal served with morel mushroom sauce. You can see from the picture, the size of the veal. Absolutely delicious.
The killer dessert however, was an amazing ‘Belgium Chocolate “Otello” Delight Mousse with Soft Toffee Centre and Coffee Sauce’. Oh boy. This was amazing. A little rich maybe (too rich for Paula as she suffered later…) plus coffee and gourmandise – by which time, the photo department had returned with our complimentary photographs.
Thanks Princess and Captain Bob. That was amazing. We certainly won’t be getting into the top 40 on the Sun Princess next year!
We just had to relax the rest of the afternoon and although it was formal night, we skipped it. Paula wasn’t in a state to eat a full meal anyway. A first again, as we knew that the dining room would be having beef Wellington, but they also had it in the Horizon Court buffet. Paula was annoyed that she missed it, so I promised I’d do her a beef Wellington when we get back home - and we’ll even invite friends to share it. That is if I can remember how to cook.
Another production show ‘Sweet Soul Music’. Better than the previous show anyway, but apart from the last number ‘River Deep’, not really memorable.
On then to the Vista lounge, where we had hypnotist David Knight again. Although we know the show itself doesn’t change much, the fun is seeing people reacting under hypnosis. The end is always a laugh, as all participants are told to do certain things and that lasts for three minutes after the end of the show. Most eyes are on the guy who lost his name and has been renamed ‘Julie’, and who thinks his shoe is a cell-phone that keeps ringing.
Off then to bed about 11pm. Unlike the Round the World cruises, the ship is still pretty lively at that time of night and the nightclub DJ was kept going until 3am last night.
Our second of three Scottish ports tomorrow, as we start heading south, though at 15 degrees, it isn’t exactly going to be warm. Invergordon, for Inverness, but we are doing a half day Highlands coach tour. After that, just two more ports and back into Southampton.
Spare a thought for our friends on the Sea Princess. They arrived in New York early, at 5pm. They all then had to be fingerprinted/eye scanned etc., in batches, and every single passenger and crew had to go ashore and no-one was allowed back on until all had been processed. The last batch weren’t back on board until 1:30am.
I can see that some ports on a World Cruise are somewhat less appealing than others and the overall attraction of some round the world cruises, is now fading rapidly. But, as I have said more than once, ‘expect a 4% error rate/inconvenience rate and you should be OK’.
PS: Yes, they do have chocolate doughnuts on deck 5 on the Royal, but they seem to disappear quickly every morning.
Monday, 27 July 2015
Day 68 - Greenock, Lochs - and a nod to Sir Jackie Stewart
Up early for a half day Princess tour of the Lochs. This was a late change for us as we decided that the original tour which was 5 hours in Glasgow, on a Sunday, in very cool weather, wasn’t a very attractive proposition.
No pastries for breakfast, nor cooked food, so once again, the banana, juice and coffee. I never take the coffee from the waiters and like the Dawn/Sea etc., there is a machine dispensing brewed coffee, once you find out where it is. The Royal has a large Horizon Court seating area, but moving towards the centre of the ship, where the bakery is situated, the seating style changes and tucked away there is the drinks station. The coffee is passable, so I haven’t used any of my Robert Timms coffee bags on this leg.
Meeting time in the Symphony dining room was 7:15am for a 7:45 tour. Bus #3 with Jim as a driver and Kit, the tour guide. We sat in row 2, leaving the front rows for the disabled as per the notices on the seats, left and right. The couple getting on the coach in front of us did the same. Then an Indian couple showing no signs of disability at all, plonked themselves in front, behind the driver on the disabled seats.
Once all 40 of us were aboard, Kit pointed out that if anyone wanted to move to the two spare seats at the front, they could, so we did… She was a bit school ma’amish (that will confuse the spell checker) and stood there rather imperiously at the front of the coach, making sure everyone had fastened up their seat belts before she gave the call to set off.
A nice enough lady, but throughout the whole tour, a totally humourless commentary. It made us realise just how good some of the others were. As mentioned throughout this blog and all previous blogs, a 4 hour (or more) dissertation without humour, can be a real drag, no matter how informative.
We headed along the Clyde for a fair way before crossing over and returning on the opposite bank. As we approached Dumbarton, I remembered that it was Jackie Stewart’s birthplace. Kit mentioned the house and family garage just as we passed it! No prior warning at all, so all I managed was a half shot of the house which has a blue plaque on the wall.
To Loch Lomond, or Luss, on the banks of Loch Lomond, a tiny little place with a 40 minute stop to walk to the water’s edge and meander through a couple of souvenir shops. In a mad spending frenzy, not helped by a misread price, I came away with a Royal Stewart tartan souvenir (how appropriate), for son Stewart, who was indeed named after Sir Jackie, but as I paid rather more than I expected, I hope he likes it. He can buy his own sporran. Incidentally, it is Grandson Noah’s 5th birthday today. How time flies.
Back on the coach again for a very pleasant drive, as the weather stayed dry, but when the sun hid, it was rather cool. I was very impressed with Jim’s driving. Very measured and considerate.
One inland stop interested me, the top of ‘Rest And Be Thankful’. Many years ago, this used to be featured annually on the BBC’s Saturday afternoon sports programme, as it was a round of the British Hillclimb Championship, but it was then a very narrow winding road. We travelled up on a good modern road.
One other short photo-stop before we arrived at Hunter’s Quay, the vehicular ferry back across the Clyde. Although we were coach #3, we were the only coach on the ferry, so Jim and Kit between them must have herded us on smartly, as the next coach would have been on the next ferry, 20 minutes later. It was distinctly cool by this time and quite overcast, but Jim was still in a short sleeved shirt and pullover. He has a brother in NZ, in Manurewa…
Back at the ship and straight on. The deck 5 International Food Court was beckoning. A nice quiche with a spoonful of chicken, pineapple and lime salad with a light curry sauce and also a spoonful of the excellent shrimp and radish salad, plus a vanilla laced flat white – WITH NO SUGAR! If the Sun Princess has similar food for next year’s cruise, we’ll be delighted. I wonder if they’ll have reintroduced chocolate doughnuts as they were on the Emerald and I suspect, early morning here on the Royal too.
A pleasant afternoon relaxing and trying frantically to keep up to date with the blog and a bit of a nana nap.
The Horizon Court evening meal was an Italian theme. Superb. The range of dishes is staggering. When Paula headed off to grab a dessert, I recognised a familiar face entering the buffet area, Chris Watkins, Paula’s overall favourite Princess entertainer. When Paula returned I shot off and caught up with him and asked if he wanted to join us. He did, much to Paula’s delight. We had a great meal and at 8pm, we had to rush to the theatre to see illusionist, David Cats. Although the show wasn’t due to start until 8:30, the theatre was just about packed, so we were lucky to get seats. Once again, just two shows scheduled and no doubt people missing out. Every single seat was filled way before the show started.
This was a classy, well produced show, but as with all illusionists, you know it is trickery of some sort and it is difficult to justify a standing ovation, but quite a few people did think it deserved one.
On then to ‘Ye Olde British Pub Night’ down in the Vista. Interesting that they had a fair bit of scenery for what is obviously a regular feature of the Royal cruises. We left after a while but they had quite a decent number of people there enjoying it. We have to say that Sam, as cruise director, appears to be very competent and confident and very relaxed in front of a microphone.
A relatively early night for us and a sea day tomorrow, which promises to be interesting. I stated earlier that I didn’t think there were too many Elites on this cruise, but we’d received and accepted an invitation to lunch with the Captain tomorrow in Sabatini’s Restaurant, for the most travelled passengers. We have no idea how many are going but it should be interesting as it certainly wouldn’t happen (to us) on the Sea or Dawn!
We have also pencilled in a trip to the live recording of the Wake Show, as Chris Watkins will be on it and we may as well show our support - if we can get in.
So a sea day and possibly staying indoors all day as it will be too chilly (for us) to be outside.
Sunday, 26 July 2015
Day 67 - Belfast - with modern history - July 25th
A much better sleep, but we didn’t surface until 9am after a much appreciated sleep. Not taking any chances, just a banana and juice again plus a coffee.
It was a bit brighter than we expected and the ship was once again, berthed on the port side. We checked the state of the queue this time and were happy enough, as we got on the first double decker to arrive.
Once in Belfast, the bus was besieged by HoHo reps, but as in Dublin, in a friendly way. We opted for the City Sightseeing tour, but this time, we are not so sure we made the right decision, as we were led by the rep to the #1 stop. I asked how many buses on the 90 minute route and was told 7, but I later decided that couldn’t be correct.
The opposition buses seemed to be going through as we waited patiently in a queue for about 40 minutes. Once on the bus, our guide Letitia was fine and very informative.
A fascinating city but more because of its history of conflict than anything else. The route took us out of town as far as Stormont, and Letitia, like most tour guides, didn’t have too high an opinion of politicians – and probably with good reason. Born in 1962, she was a young teenager when the Belfast troubles were at their very worst, and as a cub reporter, witnessed the aftermath of more than one shooting, but to give her due credit, she seemed to give a very straightforward and unbiased commentary of the troubles and she claims, probably quite rightly, that although there is peace, it may still be a fragile one. Police Land Rovers are still armoured, sections of the city are still gated at night but one modern court-house is a glass fronted building whereas the older courthouse nearby has a thick carbomb-proof wall in front.
Crumlin Rd Gaol is now a tourist attraction whilst another old courthouse across the road, linked by a tunnel, is derelict. (I hope I have those buildings correct, as I never take notes!)
All along Shanklin Rd there are murals or memorials, depicting various aspects of the conflict and also various key figures not always local, such as Mandela. One of the walls separating Catholics from Protestants (still) is decorated with signatures (including Bill Clinton’s) and in some ways, it was reminiscent of Jerusalem. Religion appears to have a lot to answer for, when our take is that religion should be about peace and love, not war.
In some respects, quite a sad tour, yet we are glad we did it. As a result of the tour, we realised back at the ship, we were berthed opposite the Titanic museum, the dry dock, and also what is now a film studio, where some of the ‘Game of Thrones’ is now filmed – it used to be a paint shop. Apparently, a popular local Tee shirt depicting the Titanic, which was built in Belfast, says “Well it was alright when it left here!”
Having had coffee in town, we elected to skip lunch altogether, (we are being disciplined aren’t we!) but headed for the buffet for dinner where it was Brazilian themed night. That is a first for us on a ship, having Brazilian night. Maureen would be so thrilled...
Off then to the production show – “What The World needs Now”. The theatre was full. Considering the technology available, this was a real disappointment, featuring the 4 singers and 8 of the dancers – who didn’t really do much dancing anyway – and a total focus on the singing. No costume changes whatever. The female dancers were wearing black halter tops, black trousers and pumps and just sat or stood around for most of the show.
We wandered around aimlessly for a while, (it is a large ship) though we did watch 2 or 3 couples dancing rather well, down in the atrium and we also peeked into the studio for the ‘Yes/No’ challenge. The Vista had a 70’s night so the dancers were just jiggling around, for us, back to the cabin and we watched ‘Malificent’ instead. If this had been in the Med, with warm sunshine, we would have been outside.
An early wake up tomorrow – Greenock, with a Princess half day tour, a drive to the lochs. As a Sunday, we decided that none of the alternatives were very attractive and Greenock will probably be closed. Even so, a late bed time of 11:30pm.
Day 66 - From big ships to Yellow Submarines - Liverpool
The last time I was remotely near Liverpool was as a 16 year-old, when I organised a coach trip to the British Grand Prix, held that year at Aintree. Fellow cruiser Mal has said to us several times that the World Cruise should add Liverpool to the itinerary, so we were interested to see whether or not we agreed.
We docked in time for the 8am schedule and I’d had a far from good night, but the corridor Tannoy announcement was the real wake up call. (By the time we have switched on the TV set and found the correct channel to hear announcements, they have finished. I’ll explain the TV system in a later piece on the Royal, as it is totally different from the other ships.)
I managed with just a banana and a vegetable juice for breakfast, but either the cement pill worked or whatever had upset me had gone – or both, but I wasn’t taking any chances...
We’d docked on the port side and it seemed as though there were dock staff everywhere. We followed the queue towards the nearest footbridge out of the dock where we were directed by the port staff Jobsworth 1, to turn right, following the path the full length of the ship, where Jobsworth 2 turned us around and sent us all the way back to Jobsworth 1 at the first bridge! You’d think that even without two way radios, semaphore or a wave would have communicated the correct bridge to use. So, we walked virtually the length of the ship yet again, to exit the dock base and then go towards the front of the ship to the dock security exit gate. Ho hum. The joys of travel.
About 30 yards further on, there was a taxi rank and also a solid block of cars we subsequently found out were queuing for the Isle of Man car ferry.
There were two HoHo bus options, the usual Red City Sightseeing and a yellow bus. There was a crowd at the door of the red bus so we opted for the yellow for a change. Good choice. Just £6 each and a live commentary from Tony. He sat upstairs at the front and although not in the same league as Dublin’s Greg, he was still very good.
We can now understand why Liverpudlians are so proud of their city. Although much is made of the Beatles and the Liverpool Football Club, as we really enjoyed what we saw of the city. Unlike the hemmed in by skyscrapers of New York, Liverpool manages to be a big city, but the centre also has lots of fairly open spaces and many magnificent buildings.
A great tour and a good commentary, that finished a short block back from the wharf. At long last Liverpool has really made something of their most famous sons, The Beatles, not just with Beatle souvenirs and tours, even a hotel, (see pic) but with ‘The Beatles Story’, adjacent to the inner dock.
A word of advice here. Buy your tickets in advance! We didn’t. So, having queued for half an hour, we had only just reached the foot of the steps leading into the building housing the exhibition and with the prospect of another 20 minutes - just to get tickets, whilst people with tickets just sailed past in ever increasing numbers, we gave it away. Although we like the Beatles, we are not in any way obsessed, so we retired to the warmth of the adjacent coffee shop. No need by now to say who that was.
Suitably warmed, we basically explored the inner harbour area and found that unlike most tourist spots, shop prices were on the cheap side - and that even included art prints as well as clothing and accessories. Whilst Paula was spending a small amount of money, I watched the action on the water, as this was the day before a Red Bull, (Albert) Harbour Reach event. Although this would probably include jet-skis, what we saw was a very clever powered zip line with water-boarders jumping ramps etc. Some of the lads were practicing. Rather them than me, but if nothing else, this Albert Dock area was a great place to spend time. We didn’t need the shopping centres but the sweet shop had a very good display of jellybeans as a portrait of the Beatles. There are several displays and exhibitions plus a large modern museum in the area and one exhibition was ‘The International Slavery Museum’. We passed on that. There were several decorated ducks ready to be placed around the City auctioned for charity. We won’t be bidding.
We totally agree with Mal that Liverpool should be on the World Cruise itinerary. The city has much to be proud of and is a match for almost any European City and like several UK stops, the city has far less graffiti than most would expect.
Back on board, I was happy to have survived. We didn’t lunch as such, we had nana naps. I grabbed a bowl of soup later, being very careful. To be fair, the soup was that good - chicken gambo (their spelling) and with some added ‘pulled pork’, I did have two bowls. Delicious.
Now I am not too sure how many the Royal’s theatre holds, but I am guessing at about 700. With over 3,000 passengers, why oh why, did they only have two performances of arguably, one of the best acts on any ship, the Beatle’s Tribute? Lesser acts may have had 3 shows, but with only 2, no wonder the theatre was overflowing. We were almost 30 minutes early for the first show, and to get a seat along the centre line, the upper block was already full, so we went down to the lower block, three rows from the front.
A tremendous show, as expected. We have now seen this group 3 times and we are sure 1 or maybe 2 of the performers have changed, but it made no difference. A total standing ovation – even from the younger bloke sitting immediately in front of us, who never applauded a single song, or made any indication that he enjoyed it, as throughout the whole performance, he seemed more interested in hiding the fact that he was slyly puffing on an e-cigarette. He probably only stood because everyone else did…
There is no better place to watch a Beatles tribute show than Liverpool, so full marks to Princess for getting that scheduled.
We then had a wander up on deck - wrapped in blankets, as we hadn’t seen the dancing waters display, this time, to Frank Sinatra. (The Princess Patter says that tomorrow, the theme is ‘Rain’ – weather permitting…).
It was very cold up there and Paula is continually prodding me and reminding me that I was taking her away for a summer.
Another new port for us tomorrow – Belfast, scene of so many problems in the past. We haven’t booked anything, so again, if the weather is OK, probably another HoHo bus.